Helmut Lang's Andrew Rosen: 'Who needs creative directors?'
Helmut Lang's chief executive officer Andrew Rosen doesn’t see the importance of a creative director at the brand.
The businessman recently tapped Dazed magazine’s Isabella Burley as the label’s new editor-in-residence, a role which involves running all creative ventures from digital content to collaborations.
Helmut Lang’s creative directors Nicole and Michael Colovos left the company in 2014 and Rosen, who has worked on one collection since then, believes Burley’s new appointment provides more freedom within the company.
“I don’t see this as a creative director at all,” he shrugged to New York Times of the new job. “Creative directors come and go. This gives me more flexibility.
“I’m interested in the idea of multiple voices. Why stay with the status quo? I believe there are opportunities to do things outside the system.”
Rosen, who is also CEO at fashion house Theory, met Burley through Brian Phillips, the founder of New York-based public relations company Black Frame. The first project under her command is a capsule collection with Hood By Air designer Shayne Oliver, which will feature menswear, womenswear and accessories.
Oliver has been recognised for his talent by the industry, scooping several prizes for his designs over the years including a win at the 2014 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers competition, and Rosen is confident he’ll do well at Helmut Lang.
“Is Shayne only Hood by Air?” he quizzed. “Just because he does one thing at his brand doesn’t mean he has to do the same thing at Helmut Lang.”
The range will be unveiled in September (17) before fans can get their hands on it. With Oliver’s involvement, Hood By Air’s production has currently been put on hold – a move predicted after the designer failed to show a new collection during the recent Paris Fashion Week.