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Vionnet: The new classic

FashionBy Sunday World
Vionnet: The new classic

Vionnet presented a new take on classic at Paris Fashion Week last night.

Designer Goga Ashkenazi always takes inspiration from events in her life rather than worldwide trends, and things were no different for Autumn/Winter 15. She told that she drew ideas from a helicopter ride she and her team took in Iceland, which saw them flying across a volcano as it erupted. Proving design is all about teaming ideas, much of the gold jewellery on display was inspired by her latest piercing - in her nipple.

All of that transferred into a collection which was more wearable than you'd think. The first look was a floor-length silk gown in light peach, which boasted a thick tied belt around the waist. It was cut to perfection, so moved with the model as she walked, with the loose-fitting top particularly flattering.

Cinched waists were a big theme of the line, also appearing on trousers. One example was a pair of high-waisted peg-leg pants, teamed with a sleeveless monochrome shirt and black tie. Finishing the look was a large obi belt, which boasted gold detailing.

That's not to say everything included could be worn for a trip to the shops though. There were bondage-style tops made of strips of black fabric which barely covered the models' modesty, as well as lace-up thigh-high boots and a maxi skirt with a transparent panel cut out between the top of the model's legs.

Dries Van Noten also showed yesterday, presenting the coloured fabrics beaming with texture that he's known for. What followed were wide-legged trousers, jacquard jackets with pinched waists and versions with oversized furry collars.

Hue-wise there was colour but it was bleached out for the most part, so light versions of burnt orange, pink and burgundy.

Layering has been big news during this Fashion Week and was again in this show, with models wearing mixtures of trousers, jackets, coats and lavish necklaces at once.

Paris Fashion Week continues today with shows by Balmain, Rick Owens and Lanvin, among others.

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