Valentino goes heavy on military chic for menswear line
Valentino wowed with a line of military-inspired ensembles at its latest menswear presentation.
Fashionistas bid goodbye to Milan and headed to Paris on Wednesday (22Jun16) for the last instalment of shows for the season, with Valentino kicking off the glamorous event with its spring/summer 2017 menswear runway show.
Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli showed a line which was heavy on military references, including the likes of army jackets, flying eagle motifs and a refined camouflage print. There were Army coats, zippered shirt jackets tucked into tapered trousers, all in green, deep blue or black, some peppered with silver studs. Prior to the show Chiuri and Piccioli said they were inspired by the concept of the human component of garment construction, after viewing the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exhibition Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible. Spanning a catalogue of artists running from Rembrandt to Rauschenberg, it displayed works which had been left incomplete, or, in some cases, at least seemingly so.
"We were very impressed by this exhibition," Piccioli told Vogue.com. "The works in it allowed you to see the human process behind the conversation between the artist and the viewer."
Accordingly, the concept was reflected in the line through irregular splotches, rough embroideries, faded denim cowboy shirts and jackets with pockets ripped off to produce colour contrasts and oversized outerwear which had a deconstructed effect. And there was also brogue with exposed staples and undyed edges, but overall the collection had a minimalist vibe complete with classic Valentino polish. Chiuri also explained that the collection reflected idea that people are creatures of habit, particularly with regards to what they wear.
"Man is very close to the idea of uniform," she said. "Modern uniform in which you represent yourself. Your personal idea. But we really believe that our man is also modern, also clever, also something not regular."
Showing at the event on Thursday (23Jun16) are the likes of Louis Vuitton and Rick Owens.