Renzo Rosso: Galliano home is Maison Margiela
Renzo Rosso has no regrets about hiring John Galliano as creative director at Maison Margiela.
The fashion mogul raised eyebrows last year when he appointed the British designer in the role, following his controversial dismissal from Dior in 2011. But months into his new position, Renzo is thrilled with the work being done at the label.
"He [Galliano] immediately fell in love with the brand. Since he started visiting the archives, he continued saying that he could not imagine to design other pieces for other brands,” he told WWD. "A few days ago I met him and I told him, ‘You look so pretty and relaxed,’ he replied, ‘It’s you! I work peacefully, I’m happy.’”
Since John arrived at the brand, he has made changes to how the company organises its collections. And for Renzo, who also owns labels including Diesel and Viktor & Rolf, it's great to see the way the designer works.
"We used to start from the different categories, keeping the couture as the last thing," he explained. "Now it’s the opposite — we start from couture and then consequently we create the other things in the way there is a fil rouge running through the whole brand.”
John's efforts seem to be paying off, with Renzo telling the outlet that Maison Margiela’s business has grown 30 per cent, and the men’s-only store in Milan is registering sales that are higher than when the unit used to carry all the brand’s products.
While things are going well for Maison Margiela, the same can't be said for Diesel this year, with the brand having undergone two years of restructuring.
"Over the years Diesel became a victim of its success, it was sold in too many stores," Renzo confessed. "We had to completely restructure it with Nicola [Formichetti] and Alessandro Bogliolo [the brand’s chief executive officer]. We had to rethink the processes and reorganise everything."