Ralph Rucci ready for fashion rebirth
Ralph Rucci feels as though his latest collection is the first he's ever created, despite over 34 years in the industry.
The designer is returning to the limelight following a difficult few years, which saw him leave the namesake label he created in 1994. At the time he was said to be departing to focus on "other creative endeavours", and on Tuesday (16Feb16) he will stage his comeback at New York Fashion Week with a collection called RR331.
"I’ve spent the past year thinking, 'How have I evolved after 34 years in this fashion industry? What have I done, from being the only American to show couture in Paris... to creating luxury ready-to-wear (here in New York)?'" he explained to WWD. "I’ve thought about what I’m best at and what I don’t know how to do well. It’s as if I’m starting again as I started in 1980.”
The Autumn/Winter 16 line will be shown at a presentation at the Mercantile Annex on 517 West 37th Street, with Rucci revealing the venue was perfect for him because an hour after his line debuts his friend Narciso Rodriguez will present just across the road.
There will be 17 looks shown at Rucci's event, and each of them will be in black. The idea is for interested buyers to chose their own colour, so the items are all customised. There will also be seven of the fur coats the designer is so known for, each featuring paintings by Rucci on the inside.
It may not sound like a lot, but the designer was determined his return to fashion should mark a more relaxed and pared down approach to clothing.
“I wanted each piece to be perfect for what it means in that area; whether it’s a raincoat, a tunic, a great looking dress or a terrific mohair jumpsuit,” he said. “Evening wear (includes) some very exciting pieces; one look is screened with the neck and face of a Pina Bausch dancer, another with the torques of a Richard Serra sculpture.”
The set will include a piece of art which is 70 feet long, with Rucci explaining he wanted the clothes and surroundings to be linked so they are "provocative and timeless".