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Olivier Theyskens to relaunch namesake line

Olivier Theyskens to relaunch namesake line

Olivier Theyskens is set to relaunch his eponymous line at Paris Fashion Week this coming autumn.

The Belgian designer started his own label in 1997 and presented his first full collection the following year in Paris, before shuttering the brand in 2002 to become creative director at Rochas. Following a stint helming Nina Ricci, where his focus shifted to a younger style of dressing, American label Theory then tapped him as artistic director, a post he held until 2014. Now, Theyskens has returned to his roots and is once again pursuing his own project, focusing his attentions on developing a line with a small team in a Paris studio, doing much of his production in Italy.

"It’s a magical, extremely artistic approach," the designer told Business of Fashion, adding that he plans to make feminine yet wearable clothes. "I personally never understood the phrase demi-couture... My fuel is what I imagine a woman, a girl, would want to wear, want to find. I always embrace couture, as well as the reality of beautiful clothes. I like the mix."

Theyskens, 39, has enlisted Maximiliano Nicolelli, who has previously worked with French fashion conglomerate LMVH, La Perla and label Esteban Cortazar, as his chief executive. While the duo would not discuss price points for the new line, the collection will sit within the upper end of the ready-to-wear scale.

The line will begin with spring and fall releases, first showing in Paris at the end of September (16). Speaking of the retail strategy, Nicolelli said that he plans to start slowly and exclusively, with limited partners and stores stocking the product. While Theyskens, whose creations have been worn by the likes of Madonna, Nicole Kidman, Cate Blanchett and Reese Witherspoon, says that his experiences working for top names in fashion have given him a wealth of knowledge that he plans to tap into for his new work.

"I’ve evolved and changed, but my core, my identity, somehow has not changed. I’m still the same material," he explained.

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