Mulberry shows brilliantly British line for spring '17
Mulberry took a distinctively British tack with a collection of tea dresses and patent raincoats for spring 2017.
The second collection under creative director Johnny Coca was presented on Sunday (18Sep16) as part of London Fashion Week.
Giving his take on English heritage style, Seville-born Coca took inspiration from British public school uniforms, high society and the military.
The show opened with a khaki uniform-inspired coat with oversized pockets, the masculine silhouette referencing the 1940s Land Girls – the women who worked in agriculture, replacing men headed to the battlefield. While stripes, like those worn by British students in grade school and college, were a main ingredient in the collection, with blazers and skirts printed in oxblood, navy and hunter green.
There were also pale florals with bonded silk ruffles and vividly hued asymmetric velvet evening dresses, which were designed to have a “wet look”.
With the notorious English weather in mind, Coca also presented a canary yellow raincoat-style dress which was cropped at the hem.
The heritage brand is known for its accessories, and former Celine designer Coca didn’t disappoint.
The designer showcased The Piccadilly, a larger version of the bestselling Bayswater, coming in an oxblood red with mustard and navy school uniform-stripe down the front. While the new Cherwell, a little like a child’s packed-lunch box with pockets and handles, came in neutrals, navy or horizontal stripes.
For the show, Coca cited paisley and English gardens as major inspirations for the collection.
“It’s going to give something quite emotional,” Coca enthused to Vogue.com before the show. “I wanted it to be less heavy than last season in terms of architecture. I wanted something more poetic and romantic, but I like the opposition for something strong with something soft, so I was looking at all the clothing from rockers and students.”