Miuccia Prada channels world problems through menswear
Miuccia Prada felt a desire to express "problematic issues" through her latest menswear collection.
The Italian designer showcased her Prada fall 16 line for men in Milan earlier this year (16) and it quickly became one of the most popular of the season. Collaborating with French artist Christophe Chemin, Miuccia presented pieces such as camp shirts, fitted jackets and tailored coats which she noted at the time reflected the wars, violence and upheavals affecting the world today.
"I must say that more than any other time, I felt the need to express general problematic issues - because sometimes you can and sometimes you can’t," she explained to WWD of her range. "But this time, the sense of questioning was strong. It’s all so dynamic now. Everything is changing in politics, we don’t know where and we don’t know how, in society, in the new means of communication, so the idea was very important for me to ask myself who we are, where we come from and where we are going...
"And then the position of women, I really care about this. After all, unfortunately women still don’t count that much in the eyes of the world."
Women walked during the show too and Miuccia often found herself turning to her womenswear collections for inspiration when designing for the opposite sex. In the end she found a formula that works; starting with more wearable pieces that customers will accept before bringing out the exaggerated looks. Whatever the result, Miuccia always sets out to change the face of fashion without being too provocative or political.
"Politics and fashion too directly linked, I don’t like that, or to make statements on clothes, (such as) 'no to war,'” she explained. "That is too serious. Maybe I’m wrong, but I like to be subtly political. Fashion must do its part, but infiltrate the spirits, rather than making big declarations with no result. When I do men’s - I never end up doing that part that is more masculine or more serious, which I am really interested in, I really like it."
However she can't seem to nail the same outlook for women as she admits to adding heels and accessories, creating a "strong feminine contrast".