Matchesfashion founder questions see-now, buy-now
Matchesfashion.com founder Tom Chapman finds it "mad" that he can get his hands on Autumn/Winter 16 pieces in spring.
The businessman and his wife Ruth are behind the popular luxury fashion retailer, which offers pieces from high-end labels such as Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Diane von Furstenberg. As the new see-now, buy-now trend becomes more popular, with brands making their latest collections available straight away, Tom is struggling to twist it to his website's advantage.
"You know, the calendar is kind of messed up," he told Vogue.com. "I’m getting Autumn/Winter 16 delivered now, it’s kind of mad. I need to be first to market, I need to inspire consumers as early on as possible, but the reality is, a lot of this is being created by American department stores getting those earlier deliveries, about markdown strategy, about promotional activity. It gives (the clothes) a short (selling) window.
"But Winter in April? Why? This need to have newness means everything becomes stale quite quickly. How do you build a core customer if you change your business every six months?"
One way to address the change is by making markdowns, with Tom explaining an "exit strategy" for stock is a must.
Something the website can definitely benefit from is its new collaboration with Joseph Altuzarra on a pre-fall collection, featuring the designer's iconic shirt dresses. Matches' buying director Natalie Kingham spoke to fashionweekdaily.com about how the line came about, explaining it all stemmed from a gingham shirt dress in the designer's Spring/Summer 15 collection that couldn't be kept in stock.
"We wanted to offer a second chance to all of our customers who missed out on this dress the first time around, so we sat down with Joseph and came up with the idea of creating a shirt dress capsule collection of his greatest hits," Natalie said. "Drawing inspiration from Altuzarra’s extensive archives, we have recreated the shirt dress in a variety of silhouettes and fabrics - striped silks and chiffon - that are perfect to wear now."