Maison Margiela shows avant garde suits
Maison Margiela showed streetwear and avant garde suiting at its latest menswear presentation.
The French fashion house, founded in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela, displayed its Spring/Summer 2017 men's line at Paris Fashion Week on Friday morning (24Jun16) inside the city's historic Ecole de Medicine.
The show opened with a model wearing slimline tailored black trousers and a deconstructed black blazer with white lines, meant to evoke the freestyle markings of tailor's chalk. The concept was also seen in cuffed black trousers with white stripes down the side and a half-finished black waistcoat which was worn over a sheer white vest and tied at the waist with a piece of frayed black rope.
Pieces of white rope were also used to tie high-waisted chino trousers and relax-fit denim jeans at the waist. The couture offering was interspersed with more relaxed streetwear garments, such as a taupe leather bomber jacket, a navy blue sweater and a check-print oversized hoodie with blue detailing. Block colours were broken up with the occasional print, such as images of foxes running in pastures on flowing silk trousers and open neck shirts. Steering away from the classic shirt shape, here Maison Margiela focused on a looser silhouette, which evoked a kosovorotka, or traditional Russian skewed-collared shirt. Accessories were kept to the absolute minimum, with models fitted in black leather lace-up boots worn with white socks or chunky brown leather slip-ons. There was also the occasional pair of aviator-style sunglasses slipped into the breast of a suit jacket.
As always, Maison Margiela included some unexpected shapes, such as a 1920s bathing suit inspired romper in a grey hue, as well as tan-coloured shorts which were cropped right at the top of the thigh. But for the fashionable professional, the designer added in an eight-button navy coat and a plain black suit with large pockets, which could be deemed office appropriate.