Helmut Lang wanted fashion revolution
Helmut Lang wanted to find a "new code for fashion".
The Austrian designer helmed his label from 1986 until his departure in January 2005, which came amid disputes within the company.
He showed off his designs at various Fashion Weeks over the years, with his aesthetic instantly recognisable thanks to the low necklines and sultry offerings.
"We were striving for authenticity. We were not concerned with mass approval. It was about finding a new code for fashion, more liberated and street-influenced and about a new sensuality and sexuality," he explained to British Vogue. "The 90s were radical in the idea that one basically did what one wanted to do, often with very little money, which created newness and contributed to clarify and strong images."
He was talking to the glossy publication about the rise of 'anti-glamour' during the decade of the waif in the 90s, which was a pivotal moment in fashion history. Helmut dubbed his presentations on the catwalk a "séance de travail" and loved the element of surprise during his staged runways.
"It allowed for a different, interactive flow similar to that of a public space, using models of all ages - supermodels, friends and men and women together. Always unpredictable, there was room for something unexpected and uncalculated to happen, which made it very new for the time," he recalled.
He adds that the garments were always centre stage with a "perfect-meets-imperfect" approach, and Helmut loved how individuality was encouraged through these means.
He added that now the internet is more dominant in the industry, it has changed everything.