Haider Ackermann named new creative director of Berluti
Haider Ackermann has been named the new creative director of Berluti.
The Columbian designer has been confirmed to helm the menswear brand after rumours circulated at the end of July (16), and will present his first collection for the label in Paris for the fall 17 season.
His appointment follows on from Alessandro Sartori, whose departure was confirmed in February (16) after almost six years, during which he made the Paris-based label famous for its tailoring.
“Everyone was expecting me to do women’s wear, so I wanted to do something else. I have another story to tell,” Ackermann told New York Times, adding this new job “felt right”.
“Like having a new lover. Men’s is a very interesting world nowadays because the customer wants more of an individual identity. But he also wants timeless, so you are always balancing on that line.”
Antoine Arnault, chief executive officer of Berluti, told WWD that he and Ackermann quickly agreed on one vision and that the new leader’s idea of luxury matched one already set by the label.
While footwear is still a big seller for the fashion house, Arnault also stresses the importance of laidback pieces like T-shirts and sweaters, noting, “casual is king”.
With Ackermann an expert in this area with his stripped back, simple designs he makes the perfect man for the job, and Arnault is confident he’ll stay true to the reputation Sartori created as well as putting his own touches on the label.
“We want him to express his creativity and his point of view on fashion and on men’s wear,” Arnault explained. “We want to keep our actual customers and to please them, while also speaking to a bit of a younger and more edgy audience.”