Donna Karan relieved designers switching to fast fashion model
Donna Karan is pleased to see a growing number of designers adopt the fast fashion business model.
A growing list of companies are showing or switching to see now, buy now collections this season, including Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger, Rebecca Minkoff, Alice + Olivia, Thakoon, as well as Burberry, who presents in London on 19 September (16).
Karan, who presented her first collection in 1985, is fully on board with the changing of fashion cycles to better align with the seasons as well as the concept of making items immediately available for purchase after they’re shown on the runway.
“The biggest issue that I have is come November and December, you see these silk dresses hanging in the store,” she told WWD of her issues with the traditional fashion calendar. “Fall’s on markdown, which is training the customer to be in the ‘white sale’ business.”
In 2015, Karan announced she would be stepping down as head of her Donna Karan New York and DKNY clothing labels, and would be focusing on her lifestyle brand Urban Zen, which she launched in 2007.
With Urban Zen’s ready-to-wear, jewellery, handcrafted leather pieces, furniture and artisan pieces, Karan, 67, shows an “in-season” collection to editors, and employs a “see, shop, in season” strategy.
And the style icon presented her latest Urban Zen collection, titled The Alchemist on Tuesday (13Sep16), the first time she’s showed the brand during New York Fashion Week.
“Everything is accessible to us — here, today, this minute, not six months from now,” she wrote in her show notes. “Presenting and experiencing our fall 2016 collection in September with press and directly to the consumer, all at once. No delay. I’ve always said that’s how a customer wants to shop and that’s how I’m showing. The new season is in season.”
The collection was replete with signature draped jersey dresses in shades of black, grey and maroon which Karan built DKNY on, as well as beaded necklaces and other chunky jewellery. Also included in the range were covetable jackets, such as a brown faux fur, a cushy silk kimono and a draped suede number.