Cavalli and Gucci show '70s luxe at Milan Fashion Week
The first day of Milan Fashion Week has offered up some of Italy's most famed designers, including Roberto Cavalli, Gucci and Alberta Ferretti.
Roberto Cavalli designer Peter Dundas stuck with the brand's tried and tested '70s luxe theme at his show late on Wednesday (24Feb16), with his models striding down a catwalk covered in metallic gold carpet. The backdrop also featured large candelabras, gold-framed mirrors and ostentatious floral arrangements.
A procession of glam rock and gypsy-inspired outfits emerged, with deep purple velvet skirts, patchwork mink capes, tiger-printed fur coats and brightly coloured jacquard jackets with fringed silk details. In addition to supersized bug-eyed accessories, models wore long, skinny neck scarves, enormous belt buckles and snakeskin platform boots.
Dundas revealed that he also took cues from early 20th century bohemianism.
“I was thinking of Orientalism through the '30s and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley,” he wrote in his show notes. “It was about decadent women idols of that time, as well as mysticism and the occult.”
Meanwhile, Alberta Ferretti also presented her new collection, which stuck with classic romantic femininity and referenced the dream-like fantasies.
She took the obvious route into her dream world, opening the show with green satin pyjama styles with pink lace insets. To contrast the lightness and liquidity of slinky satin and lace slips, Ferretti topped lingerie looks with furs, tailored coats and velvet elements.
A body-skimming satin and lace slip dress and a mauve belted velvet pyjama set also captured the slinky feeling of the collection.
Earlier, Gucci's Alessandro Michele kicked off proceedings with a collection that was full of frothy surprises.
In the year since Michele took over as Creative Director for the fashion house, he has made pretty dresses the centrepieces of the Gucci wardrobe, with Nicole Kidman among those spotted on red carpets in his more romantic creations.
In his collection, long diaphanous dresses flowed from an embroidered silk asymmetrical off-the-shoulder bodice or finished in a boa rainbow.
Ruffles were crucial to the very architecture of the looks, seen on a tiered black ruffle and lace number with Michele's trademark snake winding up the neckline.
In particular, one dress exemplified Michele's aesthetic. A sheer aqua gown with puffy, princess sleeves and golden belt that had its femininity toughened with athletic wear accents including a panther sequin logo on the bodice and No. 25 on the back.
Amid all that eclecticism, guided by what Michele described in notes as "a principle of connection and heterogeneity," there was also a return of some Gucci standards, including the double GG logo, the horse-bit print on a day skirt, and suits with contrasting lapels or cuffed trousers.