Brioni's new suit styles have Gothic edge
Brioni's Justin O'Shea has imbued his new collection with Gothic and heavy metal elements.
Formerly a fashion director for retailer mytheresa.com, the stylish Australian was appointed as creative director at the Italian menswear brand in March (16), and has since made no secret of his plans to shake-up the label's collections as well as its image.
Kicking off his radical overhaul at the Kering-owned fashion house, O'Shea made a statement last Wednesday (29Jun16) when he revealed world famous heavy metal rockers Metallica had fronted his first advertising campaign, with the musicians posing in portraits wearing the new suit styles.
Ahead of his first show for Brioni on Monday (04Jul16) during Paris Couture Week, O'Shea said that his new collection pays tribute to the brand's pret-a-couture heritage but will also mark a new emphasis on the lifestyle and accessory offering. The collection itself is set to include some surprises with wool and mohair suits in pinstripe, with stronger shoulders, smaller waists and slightly longer jackets. He also shared that there would be velvet blazers and coloured silk shirts.
"It’s very gangster to wear a silk shirt," O’Shea told The New York Times. "That’s the kind of guy I want to appeal to... They’ve got so much money. I don’t think anyone actually says they want to approach gangsters, but I’m very open about it."
He also admits that his first show will have an imaginative play on Bram Stoker's Dracula, featuring an over-the-top Dracula and a less ornate Van Helsing. Despite such influences, O'Shea is certain that his designs are still appropriate for the discerning professional.
"Something that still looks like you’re working on Wall Street, you’re just far cooler than everyone else you’re sitting next to," he said, adding that he's committed to his new aesthetic. "At the end of the day, it’s better be loved by a few than liked by many."
Brioni, founded in Rome in 1945, has a rich history of menswear innovation and is best known for outfitting actors such as Richard Burton through to Matthew McConaughey.