Armani Privé's punk presentation at Couture Fashion Week
Armani Privé meshed tailoring with punk for its latest collection.
Giorgio Armani's brand showed at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week last night, sending an edgier line than usual down the runway.
The first look showed exactly what was in store: the model was dressed in a striking pink structured jacket, with strong shoulders and single button fastening. She wore nothing beneath it and a pair of velvet loose trousers completed the long, along with an oversize pair of shocking pink button earrings and a short, black, spiky hairdo.
Make-up wise she had a slash of bright pink lipstick, a little blush and mascara and perfectly applied foundation so her skin looked flawless. When coupled with the cropped hair the look was reminiscent of the punk scene, but a kind of 80s take on it. Each girl who walked the catwalk had exactly the same beauty look, hair included, making them an army of Armani clones.
Although tailoring was the big look the designer used unusual fabrics too, including feathers and fringing. Sequins also got a look in, coming in blues and purples - other key looks of the collection.
Among the highlights was another jacket which was the same style but merged from metallic blue at the shoulders through pink and to a deep purple at the bottom, almost like an oil slick.
A pink halterneck was made entirely of feathers and for those looking for something eye-catching there was a giant chubby coat made of almost neon green, blue, purple and pink feathers.
Also presenting yesterday was one of the most hotly-anticipated collections each season - Chanel. For Autumn/Winter 15 Karl Lagerfeld created a casino theme, with models strutted around croupiers as they went about their business.
As at Armani the models were identikit, with short and severe hair with no fringe and slashes of red lipstick. Clothes wise there were classic Chanel suits to begin with, along with oversize jackets offering an 80s vibe and satin skirts.
This is one of two couture shows Karl is behind this season. He's also created an haute fourrure presentation for Fendi, the label he's creative director of and which is known for its love of furs. Much as he's excited about it, he's not sure it'll become a regular fixture.
"I don’t know if we will do it every season. You know, it’s not on my contract, so I don’t know. I’m too busy perhaps to do it all the time. And there’s a problem because there are hardly any skins left, you know," he told WWD.
"I remember 30 years ago, we made a finale with 20 sable coats. If you want to do that today, you’re lucky if you can make one or two or three because most of the animals are not hunted anymore. It’s quite difficult to do high fashion because everything made in the past hardly exists anymore, so we have to invent unbelievable techniques and mix them with feathers and other things like that because the world has changed. We are not in the 80s anymore."